Fingers

by Keith Rumburg

*Heads up, I’m not a doctor. The following information should be used as a guideline for preventing climbing-related injuries. For more in-depth knowledge, you should consult a professional.

Route name: NE Ridge of Black Peak

When you climbed it last: Last Summer

Short description of route: Beautiful hike through alpine terrain to Wing lake and bivy sites.  From there, snowfields increase in steepness to the notch at base of ridge.  Long, exposed and moderate climbing (usually done in mountain boots or tennies) up to one of the tallest summits around.  After a few hundred feet, the descent turns into a walk off.  

Route: West Ridge of Forbidden

Last Climbed: Usually I guide it a few times per year

This is a picture of my bestie (my BBSP if you will – best backcountry ski partner).  His name is Mike.  He likes to ski pow.  This picture was taken yesterday after skiing run after run of over-the-head blower at Stevens Pass. 

Over the past decade Mike has become my most trusted backcountry ski partner, but why?  What makes a good backcountry ski partner?  It’s different for everyone but here are a few critical elements that make our partnership work.  

The quad anchor has quickly become our favorite way to equalize 2-piece anchors on multi-pitch routes like Prime Rib on Goat Wall.  You can tie your cordelette into a quad configuration at the start of the day and never have to retie it both on the up and on the way down.  For a route like Prime Rib that is 11 pitches long and has many, many rappels on the descent this can save a lot of time.  

Climbing is dangerous.  These tech tips are meant for experienced climbers that understand the dangers and limitations of these systems.  Please seek qualified instruction from AMGA trained and certified guides.  These guides can help you safely take your climbing to the next level.  

A few weeks ago, I was riding an Amtrak between New York and Boston with my wife, our 6-month old son and my wife’s uncle, a professor emeritus of economics. Between diaper changes (no small feat in the bathroom of a moving train) and packed in tightly between the business commuters, we discussed the benefits and costs of industry certification.

Compiled by Scott Johnston