Route: Any route on Shuksan that tops out via the summit pyramid
Last Climbed: Last August
Short description of route: Shuksan is a beautiful summit with a "center of the universe" sort of view, with the jagged sea of the North Cascades unfurling in all directions. It also provides a unique perspective on the range, in that it is a more northern peak, with a view of the often-hidden northern glaciers of many surrounding mountains.
by Keith Rumburg
*Heads up, I’m not a doctor. The following information should be used as a guideline for preventing climbing-related injuries. For more in-depth knowledge, you should consult a professional.
I fear the sun. Really fear it. Too many sunburns as a kid. Too many sun burns in my 20s. Too many sun burns.
I’ve tried all sorts of shenanigans in the mountains to hide from the sun (I’ve even used a parasol while teaching crevasse rescue skills…it doesn’t work very well FYI).
Route name: NE Ridge of Black Peak
When you climbed it last: Last Summer
Short description of route: Beautiful hike through alpine terrain to Wing lake and bivy sites. From there, snowfields increase in steepness to the notch at base of ridge. Long, exposed and moderate climbing (usually done in mountain boots or tennies) up to one of the tallest summits around. After a few hundred feet, the descent turns into a walk off.
(Disclaimer: daisy chains should not be used in personal anchor systems)
Route: West Ridge of Forbidden
Last Climbed: Usually I guide it a few times per year
Route name: North Ridge of Forbidden Peak
When you climbed it last: Summer 2016
Route name: West Ridge of Paisano Pinnacle/North Face of Burgundy
When you climbed it last: Try to climb it once a year, at least.
This is a picture of my bestie (my BBSP if you will – best backcountry ski partner). His name is Mike. He likes to ski pow. This picture was taken yesterday after skiing run after run of over-the-head blower at Stevens Pass.
Over the past decade Mike has become my most trusted backcountry ski partner, but why? What makes a good backcountry ski partner? It’s different for everyone but here are a few critical elements that make our partnership work.
The quad anchor has quickly become our favorite way to equalize 2-piece anchors on multi-pitch routes like Prime Rib on Goat Wall. You can tie your cordelette into a quad configuration at the start of the day and never have to retie it both on the up and on the way down. For a route like Prime Rib that is 11 pitches long and has many, many rappels on the descent this can save a lot of time.