3-day program designed to teach you the basics of glacier travel and crevasse rescue.

This is a 3-day program designed to teach you the basics of glacier travel and crevasse rescue. This course is scheduled during the summer season and can be arranged with custom dates.
Program Details

Below are a few videos from NCMG owners Jeff Ward and Larry Goldie.  These videos are an example of some of the techniques you will learn on your Crevasse Rescue and Glacier Travel Course and are a good reference to use in preparation for your course.  You will be learning a lot of information on this course the and more prepared you are the more information you will retain.    

 

Crevasse Rescue: Transfer the Load from American Mountain Guides Assoc on Vimeo.

Crevasse Rescue: Backing Up a Picket from American Mountain Guides Assoc on Vimeo.

Crevasse Rescue: Prepping the Lip from American Mountain Guides Assoc on Vimeo.

Crevasse Rescue: Hauling from American Mountain Guides Assoc on Vimeo.

Itinerary

Day One: Depending on the conditions and time of year, there are several areas we may choose for this program. On the first day, we will hike into a base camp, set up camp and spend the afternoon on several topics.

These will include:

  • Various rope configurations
  • Roping up – How far apart
  • Tying off excess rope
  • Prussik systems
  • Ascending the rope
  • Snow anchors
  • Team rope travel

Day Two: We will use the previous day’s skills and venture out onto a glacier. We will discuss route finding and rope management. Touring around on the glacier will eventually lead us to a suitable crevasse for rescue practice. Here we will cover the following topics:

  • Probing for hidden crevasses
  • Arresting a crevasse fall
  • Multiple rescue and pulley systems; 2:1, 3:1, 6:1, 9:1 etc.
Students will have the majority of the day to practice crevasse rescue in a variety of teams. The most difficult being the two-person team where the entire rescue is performed by one person. We feel it is important to have each student run through this life-saving rescue procedure at least once.

Day Three: We will leave early for a final glacier tour with a student out front, route finding and managing the team.  There will be time for several students to have a turn on the front of the rope before heading down to break camp.  Back at camp we will debrief the morning’s tour and answer any remaining questions. Afterward we will pack up and hike out the trailhead.

Gear List

Glacier Mountaineering

EQUIPMENT LIST – GLACIER MOUNTAINEERING

TRIPS COVERED BY THIS LIST:

  • Mt. Baker (Easton, Coleman-Deming, Squak)

  • Mt. Shuksan (Suphide Glacier)

  • Mount Rainier

  • Eldorado (E. Ridge)

  • Silverstar

A NOTE ABOUT EQUIPMENT LISTS: Nothing can ruin a trip faster than having the wrong gear for the conditions at hand.  All our programs are subject to rapid and severe changes in the weather. Select garments that are warm, lightweight and durable.  Generally speaking, the best arrangement is to think in terms of layers – a system that dries quickly, allow flexibility and resists wind, water and abrasion. All of us have different tolerances for heat or cold; for example, you might choose warmer gloves than specified here if you tend to get cold hands. If you have doubts about a specific garment’s appropriateness, please talk to your guide in advance about conditions you are most likely to experience. This list is built for a trip with an unsettled weather forecast.  With a good weather forecast some of these items may be left behind to save weight. All trips require that you bring adequate food and water, please see our “food” equipment list for details.

CLOTHING

Head, Hands & Feet

  • Warm Hat 

  • Sun Hat 

  • Buff

  • Lightweight Gloves 

  • Midweight Gloves

  • Heavyweight Gloves (waterproof / breathable)

  • Warm Socks (~2 pairs)

Upper Body Layers

  • T-Shirt

  • Lightweight Sunshirt Top with hood

  • Lightweight Fleece jacket

  • Softshell Jacket with Hood

  • Insulated Puffy Jacket with Hood (for Rainier, this must be a heavyweight jacket)

  • Hardshell Jacket with Hood

Lower Body Layers

  • Lightweight Baselayer Bottom

  • Softshell Pants

CLIMBING / TECHNICAL CONTINUED

  • Climbing harness (a lightweight mountaineering model such as the Black Diamond couloir)

  • 2 Locking Carabiners

  • Climbing Helmet

OVERNIGHT GEAR

  • Tent (4 season, lightweight)

  • Sleeping Bag (15-20 degree rating)

  • Sleeping Pad (inflatable)

  • Stove (recommend isobutene stoves over liquid fuel)

  • Fuel (adequate for cooking and melting snow for water – the quantity will vary with the trip length; please consult your guide)

  • Pot

  • Bowl, Cup, Spoon

  • Utensils

  • Toiletries: toilet paper, a tiny tube of toothpaste, a toothbrush and possibly some earplugs are all you should need

Lower Body Layers continued…

  • Hardshell Pants

  • Optional: shorts for warmer weather approaches

ACCESSORIES 

  • Backpack (45-55 Liters)

  • Sunglasses

  • Goggles

  • Sunscreen and spf lip balm

  • Water & Food 

  • Headlamp

  • Blister Kit

  • Trekking Poles

CLIMBING / TECHNICAL:

  • Boots: Insulated leather or synthetic mountaineering boots in the early season (such as the La Sportiva Nepal) and an uninsulated synthetic boot such as the Trango. Must be crampon-compatible

  • Ice Axe (lightweight)

  • Crampons (must be compatible with your boots)

 

 

 
Available Guides
  • Profile picture for user Jeff Ward

    Jeff Ward

  • Profile picture for user Sid Pattison

    Sid Pattison

  • Profile picture for user Larry Goldie

    Larry Goldie

  • Profile picture for user Paul Butler

    Paul Butler

  • Profile picture for user Drew Lovell

    Drew Lovell

  • Profile picture for user Matt Walker

    Matt Walker

  • Profile picture for user Josh Cole

    Joshua Cole

  • Profile picture for user Steph Williams

    Steph Williams

  • Profile picture for user Jere Burrell

    Jere Burrell

  • Profile picture for user Michael Hutchins

    Michael Hutchins

  • Profile picture for user Karen Bockel

    Karen Bockel

  • Profile picture for user Matt Skorina

    Matt Skorina

  • Profile picture for user Ross Lindell

    Ross Lindell

  • Profile picture for user Kevin Dombrock

    Kevin Dombrock

Crevasse Rescue and Glacier Travel
Skills Required

To get the most out of a program like this it is important for climbers to arrive with some basic skills.  If you feel like you lack these skills consider adding an extra day before the start of this program to cover these core skills.

  • Basic snow climbing and descending techniques
  • Self-arrest
  • Use of crampons
  • Basic knots – figure eight, clove hitch, double fisherman’s
Crevasse Rescue and Glacier Travel