Alpine Rock - Grade III 5.10b, 7 pitches


Rebel Yell, on Chianti Spire, sports some of the cleanest, most exposed climbing at Washington Pass.  Local guidebook author Ian Nicholson calls Rebel Yell “one of the best alpine rock climbs in the Cascades”.   Pitch after pitch of high-quality granite crack climbing takes you a postage stamp sized summit.
Itinerary

The climbing on Rebel Yell involves every type of crack climbing from layback fingers, to perfect hands, fists, chimneys and even a splitter section of off-width.  All seven pitches of this route are unique and memorable.  There are two potential starts.  The left start is quite a bit harder and thinner while the right start is wider and easier.  The ratings of the pitches are as follow – P1 5.9(or 5.8), P2 10b(or 5.9+), P3 5.9(or 5.7), P4 5.8, P5 10b, P6 5.8, P7 5.7.  For a complete description of the route check out the Super Topo guide to the Washington Pass Area.

Typically this climb is done as a two-day trip, spending the night at either the Larch Bench or Burgundy Col.  Camping overnight at these campsites allows climbers to add another climb to the itinerary.  Popular routes on day one include the North Face of Burgundy Spire or the West Ridge of Paisano Pinnacle.

Climbers usually need to bring crampons and ice axes for this route, but the descent is by rappelling the route so extra gear can be left at the base of the climb.

Skills Required

Climbers should be comfortable following crack climbs up to 10b.  Experience with wide cracks is helpful, including off-widths.  Some experience with crampons and an ice axe is helpful but not required.

The are several other quality routes that be climbed from the Burgundy Col Camp or the Larch Bench Camp.  You can also combine this route with other routes in the Washington Pass Area.  Here are some recommendations.

  • Junno Tower – Clean Break
  • South Early Winter Spire – Direct East Buttress
  • Paisano Pinnacle – West Ridge
  • Burgundy Spire – North Face
  • North Early Winter Spire – Northwest Corner
  • North Early Winter Spire – West Face