Jeff and Mihai climbed the North Ridge of Forbidden Peak last weekend. The route was in perfect shape, the weather couldn't have been better, and the pair cruised the route. This route is one of our favorites. It combines a spectacular, broken glacier, steep snow climbing and an exposed granite ridge that takes you directly to the summit of one of the most iconic peaks in the North Cascades.
Crossing the Boston Glacier on day one.
Mihai crossing the Boston Glacier on the way to the bivy at the base of the North Ridge.
The view from the bivy at the base of the North Ridge.
The bivy sites at the base of the North Ridge are beautiful with views to the east of Mt. Buckner and Eldorado Peak to the west.
Morning light on Eldorado Peak.
Jeff getting to bed early with the north face of Mt. Buckner in the background.
Low on the NW Face of the North Ridge
The NW Face of the North Ridge consists of 5 or 6 pitches of steep snow climbing. Above Mihai has crossed the 'shrund and is moving quickly up the face.
Higher on the face with the first rays of sunshine.
Jeff climbing into the alpenglow on the NW Face
Topping out on the northwest face.
Looking at the North Ridge from the top of the Northwest Face.
Once you top out on the NW Face the climb moves on to the North Ridge proper - pictured above. The climbing on the ridge is moderate but very exposed. Perfect climbing for mountaineering boots and a lightweight overnight pack.
Jeff leading across the North Ridge.
Mihai nearing the top of the North Ridge.
Mihai on the summit.
Mihai on the summit of Forbidden for the third time. He now has climbed the North Ridge, the West Ridge and the East Ridge (in a day traversing the peak from east to west). The next climb on the Forbidden Peak list is the NW Buttress on the North Face. Mihai has an ambitious plan to climb the Torment Forbidden Traverse combined with the NW Buttress. Stayed tuned to see how it goes.....