This is really an amazing time of year in the North Cascades. The approaches are all still completely snow covered, but the rock is dry and warm. With this in mind, Larry teamed up with Alex hall for an early season ascent of Liberty crack. With the plan of skiing up to the base, they decided they would rappel down after the first 6 pitches, as these offer some of the best climbing on the route and would make for a fine day out.
Alex approaching the base of the route
As one of the famous "50 Classic climbs of North America", this route is amazingly clean, steep and offers pitch after pitch of superb climbing.
Alex on the first pitch.
The first pitch goes free at a technical 5.11a and offers sustained climbing for its full 170'.
Alex dangles from the Lithuanian Lip on P2.
The next 2 pitches of the climb are primarily direct aid. The first tackles a 10' roof, known as the Lithuanian lip. We chose to have Alex lead the first 2 pitches, then I would take the next 2, to avoid long waits while belaying as the aiding is fair bit slower than free climbing.
Looking down the third pitch while Alex jumars up and cleans the gear.
The key to aid climbing is staying organized, both while leading and at the belays.
Alex pulls into the belay at the top of pitch 6.
At the top of the aid climbing comes three great pitches of free climbing. The first is a splitter hand crack, followed by a long left facing corner. The last one is a series of flakes requiring laybacking and stemming and tops out on the "Rotten Block". From here we rappelled back down to our skis and schussed back down to the car after another great day at Washington Pass.