Over the years, brothers Matt and Tom Desmond have climbed many classic Cascade peaks. Recently, due to work and raising families, the two somehow skipped a few seasons. This past June, they came "out of retirement" and, along with NCMG owner and guide, Paul Butler, wanted to tag another summit. Goode Mountain, the highest peak in the North Cascades National Park, seemed like the perfect choice.
Any approach to Goode is going to be full on. Our intended route was going to be the SW Couloir, first climbed in the 1930's. It has a little bit of everything, including a demanding and adventurous approach. We decided to make the most of the trip and head into the backcountry via the town of Stehekin which the Desmonds hadn't been to before.
After meeting in Chelan, we took the ferry to Stehekin, a small hamlet at the northern end of Lake Chelan that is only accessible by water, air or trail. Once we arrived, instead of using the shuttle service to reach the 11-mile portion of the Stehekin River Road, a local friend lent us his truck. From the trailhead, we hiked along the beautiful valley floor to our first camp where Park Creek joins the Stehekin River. The next day we cruised four miles up the Park Creek Trail then followed the faint climber's trail several thousand feet to our high camp below the south face of Goode.
Despite a few ominous looking clouds, the weather was beautiful: Partly cloudy and cool. We set up camp below the peak and enjoyed the spectacular views. Goode loomed above.
We had a solid freeze overnight and took off early, enjoying good crampon conditions. It was going to be a full day. Despite the paltry past winter, the SW Couloir still had snow in it and we cruised up the gully reaching a prominent notch that accesses the upper reaches of the steep and exposed NE Buttress.
There is a bit of loose rock here and there, but overall the fourth and low fifth class climbing on the upper bit of Goode is solid and fun with 5,000' of exposure above the picturesque North Fork of Bridge Creek valley.
Soon we were on the summit with incredible views in all directions. The boys had tagged yet another Cascade giant, but there was still a long day of descent to deal with.
We went down the way we came up and before long we were back in camp. But we needed to keep going with the plan of returning to the Park Creek camp on the Stehekin River Road. So, down, down, down we went much to the protesting of our knees and feet.
We arrived late back on the valley floor for a solid night's rest. The next day we hiked back to the trailhead, jumped in the truck and made a beeline for the famous Stehekin bakery, a post adventure experience not to be missed. Soon we were on the ferry headed down the idyllic waters of Lake Chelan feeling quite content. Goode, as always, didn't come easy, but was as good as it comes, especially when one is "un-retiring."
