Jean and Cassandra plan a vacation together nearly every Summer. The joke is that they often need a vacation after their vacation! This year they had planned to meet up with Larry to climb the North Ridge of Mt Baker along with a few days of sunny, alpine rock at Washington Pass. Unfortunately the road to the North side of Baker washed out early this year and has yet to be repaired, so the team shifted their sights to another mega classic, the West ridge of Forbidden peak. As one of the famed "50 classic climbs of North America", the West ridge is a hard climb to top for position, quality and diversity of climbing.
Forbidden peak with the West ridge on the left skyline.
With a forecast of perfect weather for our entire week, we were shocked to hike in under thick, cloudy skies. We thought it was a marine layer that would burn off by early afternoon, but it was still there after dinner. While we appreciated the shade for the hike into camp, we were a bit concerned about the weather for our climb!
Jean and Cassandra hanging out at our camp, wishing for a view of Forbidden.
Sure enough the next morning we awoke in thick clouds, but began heading up toward the peak, as the forecast was SOOO good! After only a half an hour of climbing we broke through the clouds and it was clear skies above!
Above the clouds with Mt Johanesburg in the background.
Our spirits soared and we made good time heading toward the unnamed glacier and into the approach coulior. The snow coverage was great and allowed us to take a very direct route to the coulior.
Jean and Cassandra halfway up the snow coulior.
The coulior was still in good shape and with a couple of pitches of steep snow, we quickly transitioned onto the rock portion of the ridge - and it was turning into a spectacular day!
Climbing on the West Ridge of Forbidden peak
We made great time on the ridge and had it all to ourselves until just below the summit. The views were spectacular in every direction.
Jean and Cassandra just below the summit of Forbidden peak.
The descent went smoothly and soon we were hiking back toward camp stopping mostly to put on more sunscreen and admire the wildflowers!
Pausing on the descent of the morraine with wildflowers and a view of Sharkfin tower.
After heading out of Boston Basin the next morning we headed over to our new basecamp in Mazama to do a few days of Alpine rock climbing at Washington Pass.
Jean just below the summit of South Early Winter Spire.
Our first objective was the South Arete of South Early Winter Spire. After Forbidden this felt like a fairly casual day and it was just what the doctor ordered after a few big days in Boston Basin.
Cassandra topping out on the first pitch of the Beckey Route.
The following day we headed to the super classic Beckey route on Liberty Bell. This climb offers more sustained fifth class climbing than anything we had done until now and the ladies loved it.
The ladies at the top of pitch two of the Beckey Route.
For our final day, we decided to maximize our climbing, and minimize our hiking, so we chose to head the Prime Rib route on Goat Wall. This 13 pitch climb offers a lot of climbing for a 25 minute approach!
Jean, looking excited on the 3rd pitch.
Prime Rib is likely one of the longest bolted moderate routes in the U.S and offers many climbers the chance to get way, way off of the deck!
Cassandra and Jean at one of the many belays on Prime Rib (of Goat)
Cassandra finishing up the exposed 11th pitch.
One of the final belay stances that shows the position of the climb, high above the valley floor.
After topping out, a mere 15 rappels brought us back to the base and after a short hike down, we made it just in time for Pizza night at the Mazama store - a perfect ending to a perfect week in the Cascades!