The NCMG trip to Rainier this year was super cool. We had a small, strong team, great weather and climbed one of the more striking lines on the mountain - The Fuhrer Finger.
Looking up at the South Face of Mount Rainier
The Fuhrer Finger is one of the most direct lines up the mountain. It climbs the snaking snow couloir that splits the south face. You can just make it out in the picture above, left of the main Nisqually Icefall.
We chose the path less traveled.
One of the nicest things about the Finger is the lack of crowds. It's surprising that this route isn't more popular but we were glad to have it all to ourselves.
Climbing on the Lower Nisqually Glacier
The first day was spent climbing up the lower Nisqually Glacier to a camp on the Wilson Bench.
First night's camp on the Wilson Glacier
Bivy on the Wilson
Clay and Jeff Larson decided to go light and leave the tent behind, spending the night in bivy sacks. With a 16,000' freezing level and light winds it seemed like a great strategy. Here Clay gets ready for "bed" while Jeff is in the background already fast asleep.
Climbing towards the Finger on day 2
The next day we were briefly on the route to the Kautz (another good moderate route on the south face), then headed back out onto the Wilson Glacier and up the Finger.
Large crevasses below the Fuhrer Finger.
Climbing the lower portion of the Finger
Due to the high freezing levels and warm temperatures we decided to climb the main part of the finger during the heat of the day. This may seem counter intuitive but the softer snow meant the rocks traveled slower and were easier to dodge. It still made for a few exciting moments but we were able to hug the side of the couloir most of the way in order to stay out of harms way.
Larry and Kyle nearing the top of the couloir and getting closer to the Eagle's Nest.
One of the best parts of the trip was spending the night in the Eagle's Nest. This has to be one of the coolest camps in the world. The pictures hardly do it justice. Take our word for it - it's amazing.
Jeff climbing up to the Eagle's Nest.
Setting up camp at the Eagle's Nest. It was just big enough for two tents.
(Freeze Dried) Dinner with a view.
The shadow of Mt. Rainier as the sun sets.
The next day we climbed the rest of the route, starting off with some steeper climbing right out of camp.
Clay and Jeff following moderate ice above camp.
Kyle climbing the last of the steeps above the Finger. On a ski descent of this route this is the crux section with slopes reaching 50 degrees.
The upper part of the route went smoothly and soon the team was standing on the summit.
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The team enjoying the summit.
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With the nice weather camping on the summit seems like the right thing to do.
Larry enjoying his coffee in the morning.
Jeff and Clay in their snow shelter on the summit.
Sleeping at 14,000' is often a chore but everyone had a reasonable night's sleep and were ready to head down the Disappointment Cleaver Route in the morning. It was a little strange to start running into so many people and the signs of traffic after spending the last 3 days virtually alone on the mountain.
Jeff gets to experience his "Everest moment" crossing a ladder on the Ingraham Glacier.
We'd like to thank Jeff, Clay and Kyle for making this such a great trip. It was one to remember.