Jeff Ward
Submitted by Jeff Ward on

We really have no idea how this plan was hatched but the original goal was to climb Mt. Kenya.  While researching the climb we came up with the brilliant idea of accclimatizing in the Alps instead of acclimatizing on Mt. Kenya.  We had to fly through Europe anyway, so why not get off the plane and do some climbing.  Below are some shots from our trip up the SW Ridge of the Monch.

Here Pat Luke is enjoying some nice solid rock climbing at 12,000 feet.  The SW Ridge is a mixed climb with mid-fifth class rock climbing and some moderate ice and snow.  One of the best things about the route is the lack of crowds.  Usually a route of this quality sees a lot of traffic but the SE ridge is a little easier and still very good so most of the climbers end up climbing that route.  We decided to climb the SW and descend the SE for an enjoyable traverse of the mountain.   

The beauty of acclimatizing in the Alps is being able to use the trams and high-mountain trains to access the mountains.  This climb is accessed via the Jungfrau Railway which tunnels through the Eiger and the Monch dropping you off just below the SW Ridge of the Monch.  How convienient.  You can make out the end station just above Pat's pack. 

Pat higher on the route with the Jungfrau in the background.

Eventually you move onto the North side of the ridge where you end up climbing easy mixed ground and finally a steep snow and ice ridge. 

Jeff and Pat on the summit with the Eiger in the background.

One of the cool aspects of this traverse is that it's not over at the top.  You then get to descend the classic SE ridge.  Usually descending off of a peak ends up being a chore, but the SE ridge is so exposed and enjoyable that it actually adds a lot to the climb.  Here Pat downclimbs one of the easy rock pitches lower on the ridge. 

Unfortunately our other Mt. Kenya partner MG wasn't able to meet up with us in Europe, so she missed out on this great climb.  We're both looking forward to meeting up with her and Larry in Nairobi for the next part of this adventure.  Stay tuned for more....

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