North Ridge of Forbidden Peak

Josh Cooley
Submitted by Josh Cooley on Wed, 06/21/2017 - 12:22

North Ridge of Forbidden Peak


Route name: North Ridge of Forbidden Peak


When you climbed it last: Summer 2016


Description of route/experience: A two day route that includes crossing one of the largest glaciers in North Cascades National Park, climbs steep snow and ice and follows and super aesthetic ridge to an impressive summit.  The climb requires an on-route bivy so being able to travel light is key.  


Why you like it:  The combination of all the necessary alpine skills is what makes this route so special.


Gear needed: Lightweight overnight gear, which includes a small, down sleeping bag, tiny pad and minimal other overnight gear.  Standard alpine climbing gear such as crampons, ice axe, and boots that can climb steep snow/ice and moderate rock.


Experience level required:  Experience on moderately steep snow like the North Ridge of Baker.  Crevasse Rescue training and the ability to climb moderate rock (5.6 to 5.7) in boots with a pack on.


Best time of year to climb: July to September