Josh Cooley
Submitted by Josh Cooley on Fri, 08/04/2017 - 09:18

Mt. Shuksan

Route:  Any route on Shuksan that tops out via the summit pyramid

Last Climbed: Last August

Short description of route: Shuksan is a beautiful summit with a "center of the universe" sort of view, with the jagged sea of the North Cascades unfurling in all directions. It also provides a unique perspective on the range, in that it is a more northern peak, with a view of the often-hidden northern glaciers of many surrounding mountains.  

Why you like it: Gaining the summit pyramid by any route is a journey unto itself - the mountain holds many aspects and personalities, with considerable vertical relief above the surrounding valleys.

Gear needed: Gear on a Shuksan climb consists of crampons, ice axe, and glacier travel gear at a minimum.  More technical approaches to the summit could entail more specific gear, such as snow, ice, and rock protection.

Experience level required: Though not an easy walk-up from any direction, Shuksan is a suitable and good challenge for all experience levels, again, depending on the chosen route.  The Sulphide Glacier route is the friendliest, requiring beautiful but straightforward glacier travel to reach the 3rd and 4th class rock scrambling of the summit pyramid.

Best time of year to climb: One cool thing about Shuksan is that it lends itself well to climbing throughout the spring / summer season.  Earlier spring / summer trips allow for the bonus of great glacier skiing after descending from the steeper summit terrain.