Jeff Ward
Submitted by Jeff Ward on


Carry items that are breathable, allow flexibility, reisist wind and water, and based on a layering system.  Please confer with your guide about specific clothing combinations and/or if you have any questions regarding your gear.

  • Boots - Rigid synthetic or leather mountaineering boots.  Early season (May – June) climbers may want an insulated pair of leather or synthetic boots for the overnight portion of this program.  Mid to late season, uninsulated boots are preferred
  • Gaiters – Necessary for snow travel.  Ankle high gaiters are recommended for the Alps.
  • Socks – Wool or synthetic. Avoid cotton. A single heavy weight pair is best. A pair of liners with a medium sock also works well. Bring a spare set.
  • Pants – Synthetic preferred. Pants made from Schoeler Fabric such as Patagonia’s “Alpine Guide” or “Simple Guide” pants are great options.
  • Long Underwear – Top and bottoms: Capilene or polypropylene recommended.  Bottoms optional if you tend to run warm.
  • Lightweight long-sleeve shirt - A lightweight fleece (Patagonia’s R1) or wool shirt.
  • Insulated Jacket – Synthetic, pile or wool. Patagonia’s “puffball” or similar synthetic is a great option as its lighter, warmer and more packable than fleece.
  • Shell gear - Gore-tex parka with hood and pants as lightweight as possible. These will live in your pack for much of the trip. Side zips on your pants are nice for pulling on over boots.
  • Gloves- Two pairs: one insulated with shell, the other lightweight, such as a windstopper fleece or nordic ski glove with a leather palm. For climbing programs mittens are not recommended.  If your hands get cold easily we recommend warm gloves with chemical hand warmers.
  • Sun hat – Quick drying preferable.
  • Warm Hat - A wool or fleece ski hat that fits under your helmet.
  • Shorts and T-shirts - Optional.  For warm approaches.


Climbing Gear

  • Crampons - We suggest a standard flat frame alpine crampon such as the Black Diamond Sabretooth or the Grivel G12. You will also need rubber anti balling plates (called antibottes) specific to your crampons. Many crampons come standard with these. Bring a small lightweight stuff sack for storing your crampons in your pack. You won’t need a heavy case with padding and zippers.
  • 2 Ice tools - An alpine ice tool such as the Black Diamond Venom or Petzl Sumtec are perfect for most of the alpine ice routes in the Cascades.  A more water ice oriented tool will also work but will not be as good on the more moderate terrain.  Leashless tools with a sliding pinky rest are ideal.
  • Spinner Leash or Standard Leashes - If climbing "leashless" we recommend bringing a harness leash such as the Black Diamond Spinner Leash to avoid dropping a tool.
  • Climbing Harness - A versatile, lightweight harness is best. Ideally one with a belay loop and adjustable leg loops. Gear loops are critical on the harness.
  • Carabiners - Bring 2 lockers and 2 non lockers.
  • Belay/ Rappel device -Plate type device like the Black Diamond ATC or the Petzl Reverso.
  • Helmet – Must be specific for climbing/ mountaineering.


Camping Gear

  • Overnight Pack – 45 to 55 liters depending on the size/bulk of your camping gear.
  • Headlamp - A necessary tool for early starts. One of the new lightweight combinations LED and Halogen are great for nighttime climbs. A simple LED model will work fine as well.
  • Lunch Food - Lunches and favorite snacks. An adequate amount for high-energy days.
  • Dinner and Breakfast – Most people chose to bring lightweight dehydrated dinners and a simple breakfast of instant oatmeal or cold cereal for breakfast.
  • Hot Drinks – coffee, tea and/or hot chocolate
  • Water bottles - We recommend 2 quarts. Collapsible bottles like the MSR Dromedary Bag take up less room in your pack as you drink water. Hydration bladders work well.
  • Sunscreen/ lip protection - SPF higher than 30. A small tube should last the entire trip.
  • Sunglasses - With 100% UV protection. Consider wearing with retention straps. Changeable lenses are great for variable light conditions. Smith’s slider series offers this option. Dark lenses are a must and many people use side shields as well.
  • Personal med kit - Mostly just for blisters and hotspots. Molefoam, athletic tape and Spenco’s second skin all work well. Your guide will carry some of this, but bring some of your own if you are prone to foot issues. You may also want to consider bringing a small amount of Tylenol or ibuprofin, antacids (ie- Pepto Bismol, Rolaids) and a few Bandaids.
  • Pocket Knife - Simple and Light. Mainly used for cutting food.
  • Tent – lightweight tents are preferred for these trips.  Check with your guide to coordinate tents for this program.
  • Stove and Fuel – Check with your guide to coordinate stoves and fuel for this program.
  • Sleeping Bag - Rated between 0 and 30 degrees.  Please confer with your guide for sleeping bag recommendations.
  • Sleeping Pad - A single lightweight inflatable mattress is recommended.  The new Thermarest Neoair line is very lightweight and takes up very little room in your pack.


Additional Gear

  • Trekking Poles - Adjustable poles are great for improving balance, saving energy and sparing your knees. The 3 section poles or the new tent pole style poles like the Black Diamond Z-Pole are nice because the fit inside your pack while climbing technical terrain. Keep them fairly short so that your hands are below your navel when standing on flat ground. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!
  • Camera- Most likely you will want to document this great adventure. Try to get a carrying case that fits on your pack and will not interfere with your climbing. If you keep your camera inside your pack you won’t take many pictures.
  • Goggles - Optional.  These may be useful when climbing some of the higher peaks in poor weather.
  • Neck Gaiter - A product called a “Buff” has become extremely popular and can work for everything from a neck gaitor to a hat, to a headband, to a balaclava. Ask your guide for a short demo of the many uses of a Buff.
  • Toiletries - Keep it simple. A tiny tube of toothpaste and travel toothbrush, toilet paper and hand sanitizer is all you will need.