North Cascades Mountain Guides -Classic climbs: West Ridge of Forbidden Peak

Forbidden Peak is one of the better known peaks in North Cascade National Park. At 8,815 feet it is not the tallest peak in the range, but the quality of climbing and the beauty of the peak make it one of the best. Its pyramid shape, surrounding glaciers and solid rock make Forbidden Peak a difficult summit to attain. All of the routes to the summit of Forbidden require technical climbing. There are no “walk-ups” on Forbidden Peak.

The West Ridge of Forbidden Peak is by far the most popular route, and for good reason. The upper ridge alone would be worthy of classic status. It is one of the most beautiful rock ridges in the world – wild exposure, solid rock and moderate climbing all combine to make an amazing climb. You can also throw in a steep snow couloir, a moderate glacier and a beautiful, high alpine camp to round out this classic. It is no wonder why the West Ridge made it into “50 Classic Climbs in North America”.

The view of Forbidden peak as you enter Boston basin. The West ridge climbs the hidden snow coulior and then follows the left skyline. The East ridge follows the right skyline.

What to Expect:

The approach to the West Ridge of Forbidden starts at 3,200’ on the Cascade River Road just outside the town of Marblemount. The trail leading to high camp starts in the forest but quickly climbs into the alpine. To reach your high, alpine camp you will end up climbing 3,100’ in approximately 3 miles. The approach trail is steep but it efficiently gets you to your highcamp and in position for the climb the following day.

After an alpine start early in the morning, you will climb up to the base of the West Ridge Couloir via moderate snow and glacier. Climbing the couloir consists of steep, 45 to 50 degree snow, with often an easy mixed section near the top. Once you reach the ridge-crest you can cache your snow climbing gear and switch into rock shoes. The ridge itself is relatively easy in terms of technical difficulty, but the exposure and views are unmatched. The route follows on or near the ridge-crest all the way to the summit. The summit of this beautiful pyramid is spectacular. After spending some time taking pictures of the surrounding peak you will reverse your route, downclimbing and rappelling the West Ridge. After picking up your cache and switching back to your boots we will continue the descent down the couloir and back to highcamp.

The next morning, after your big day in the mountains, you will enjoy a leisurely start and a reasonable, two to three hour walk downhill back to the trailhead. This day can also be used as an optional weather day or an extra day to climb a nearby peak such as Sharkfin Tower.

North Cascade Mountain Guides also offer this program as a two or even one-day program. Previous climbing experience with NCMG or a strong recommendation from a certified guide is required to participate on one of these more advanced programs.

Descending the glacier below Forbidden with Johanesburg looming large across the valley

Descending the glacier below Forbidden with Mt. Johanesburg looming large across the valley.

Necessary Skills:

Comfortable climbing 5.6 in rock shoes.
Previous experience climbing with crampons and ice axe
Good physical fitness – able to keep moving continuously with short breaks for up to 12 hours

Combine with:

Once you have a basecamp set up in Boston Basin, there are several nearby peaks that offer great climbs as well. The SE ridge of Sharkfin Tower offers some of the best rock anywhere in the Cascades and makes a great training route before Forbidden. The Quien Sabe glacier on Sahale peak is a great option for a quick morning ascent before hiking out on day three if climbers have enough energy remaining.

More information:

Click here for information on training for alpine climbing
Recommended Reading: 50 Classic climbs of North America

Click below to see photos from a few previous climbs of the West Ridge of Forbidden:

Just below the summit of Forbidden Peak with Morrain lake and Eldorado peak in the background.