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Vince Minichiello

South Arete- South Early Winter Spire- June 23, 2007

 
Planning a trip to Washington for business, Vince Minichiello of Maryland contacted NCMG to try and squeeze in a bit of fun on his work trip. After discussing possible objectives, Vince and Larry decided on the South Arete of South Early Winter Spire. With long term goals including the Matterhorn, climbing the South Arete in mountain boots would be perfect training for such a future climb.
 
Vince in Spire gully
Taking advantage of the still abundant snowpack, we left from the hairpin turn on Highway 20 and began hiking up the slopes of Spire Gully.
 
South Arete
Here the South Arete can be seen in profile on the left skyline.
 
Vince climbing steeper snow
Spire Gully offers over 2000 vertical feet of snow that gets progressively steeper toward the top. We began using ski poles, then moved to one pole and an ice axe as the snow got a bit steeper. Here Vince works his way up near the top of the slope.
 
Getting higher on the climb
Many climbers had the same idea as we did that day and when we arrived there were 4 parties ahead of us on the climb. With an alternate start and some clever ropework, we had passed all four parties within the first 15 minutes of the climb. We had the entire rest of the climb to ourselves.
 
Vince pulls through a small bulge
Vince pulling through a short, steep section.
 
Vince getting ready for the exposed traverse
There is an incredibly exposed section right below the summit. Here Vince readies himself to move across.
 
Vince on the Traverse
Vince smoothly climbs across the traverse, confident, even in boots.
 
summit shot
We had a leisurely lunch on the summit, though we noticed the clouds building a bit.
 
mountain goats
After descending the route, we began the short ridge scramble toward the top of spire gully. We passed a small group of Mountain Goats as we headed across.
 
looking up at the climb
After glissading most of Spire Gully we were back down at the car less than an hour after setting foot back on the ground and only about 2 hours after leaving the summit. It was amazing to look back up there, thinking about how far away it looked now and how quickly the weather was changing...
 
 
 
 
 
 


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