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Mt Triumph

Lew Miller - July 8 -10th, 2008

 
In what was planned to be a climb of Forbidden peak's West ridge, a closure of the Cascade River road called for a quick back up plan. Another 3 day objective with awesome views, exposed ridge climbing and a glacial approach, immediately brought to mind the Northeast ridge of Mt Triumph.
 
The approach to Triumph, while largely on trail, is long and involves considerable elevation gain. What we didn't expect was so much of the approach to be snow covered. After climbing several thousand feet on trail, we topped out at a pass before dropping down to the first of the 3 Thornton lakes. Visible in this photo is the first lake (at the bottom and largely snow covered), the coulior leading to our high camp at the col (just above the lake) and the top of Triumph itself (poking out from behind the col).
 
After skirting the first lake, we crossed the second lake at its outlet and traversed above it on our way to the long coulior leading to the pass.
 
Once at the pass, we are greeted by our first full view of the route. The next morning we would drop down, cross the glacier and head for the notch at the base of the right hand skyline, which is the Northeast ridge.
 
The day was perfect and the sunrise found us crossing the glacier in awe of the area's remote and rugged beauty.
 
Mt Triumph has arguably one of the best views of the Picketts of any North Cascade vantage point. Here low on the climb, Lew works his way up the ridge with the Pickett range for a backdrop.
 
Lew, all smiles halfway up the route.
 
The majority of the climbing on the ridge is moderate, though frightfully exposed. Here Lew looks up from his concentration just long enough for me to snap this photo.
 
Many hours and many rappels later, find us making dinner back in our tent at the pass. This self portrait captures the tent life of two happy and tired climbers.
 
The hike out takes almost as long as the way in, though thankfully is mostly downhill. Here Lew crosses the last stream before the car.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 


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