Paul Jennings
SW Rib - South Early Winter Spire- May 30th, 2007
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| Mazama resident Paul Jennings contacted Larry
about getting out into the mountains a few times to help prepare
for a big personal trip later in the summer. Paul loved the
idea of a ski approach and descent with an alpine rock climb
in between. This time of year is well suited to that - perfect
for the all around fun hog! |
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| Their goal would be the SW rib of SEWS
(shown here in red). This 9 pitch climb is rated a moderate
5.8, though has several challenging sections with tricky
routefinding and some fairly serious runouts. That said,
its one of the classics of the area and most enjoyable
on a beautiful spring day. |
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| The snow was firm in the morning, and
we skinned the entire way to the base of the route save
for a short steep slope that we kicked steps up. Here
Paul completes the last few steps before putting skis
back on. |
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| After about 4 pitches comes the dreaded
"Nervous pitch". This pitch, while rated only
5.7 has seen many novice leaders whine and whimper while
contemplating some committing and poorly protected moves.
Here Paul finishes up the pitch with a tight belay from
above. |
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| The following pitch is the classic "Bearhug
pitch". These twin 5" cracks take some creative
climbing to avoid finding yourself bearhugging the rock.
Here Larry poses for a shot before starting up. |
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| After cruising the pitch Paul looks up
to smile for a great photo op. |
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| Slightly higher is a dramatic ridge that
offers quality moderate, though minimally protected climbing.
Here Larry works his way up the ridge. |
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| Here is Paul on the same section of ridge. |
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| It's hard not to feel the magic and grandeur
of the North Cascades, high on a route like this one,
on a bluebird day. |
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| We took a short lunch break on the summit,
which we had all to ourselves - the beauty of climbing
midweek at Washington Pass. |
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| We descended the classic South Arete
route. It involves downclimbing all but the last section,
which we rappelled. Here Larry rappels down to where Scooby
patiently awaits, excited for the ski out! |
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| After a fantastic day of climbing, we
topped it off with a quick and enjoyable 30 minute ski
back to the car. The snow was a bit slow being so late
in the day, though we kept laughing to ourselves at how
much it beat walking.... |
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