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Paul Jennings

SW Rib - South Early Winter Spire- May 30th, 2007

 
Mazama resident Paul Jennings contacted Larry about getting out into the mountains a few times to help prepare for a big personal trip later in the summer. Paul loved the idea of a ski approach and descent with an alpine rock climb in between. This time of year is well suited to that - perfect for the all around fun hog!
 
SW Rib of SEWS
Their goal would be the SW rib of SEWS (shown here in red). This 9 pitch climb is rated a moderate 5.8, though has several challenging sections with tricky routefinding and some fairly serious runouts. That said, its one of the classics of the area and most enjoyable on a beautiful spring day.
 
Paul on the approach
The snow was firm in the morning, and we skinned the entire way to the base of the route save for a short steep slope that we kicked steps up. Here Paul completes the last few steps before putting skis back on.
 
Paul finshes the "nervous pitch"
After about 4 pitches comes the dreaded "Nervous pitch". This pitch, while rated only 5.7 has seen many novice leaders whine and whimper while contemplating some committing and poorly protected moves. Here Paul finishes up the pitch with a tight belay from above.
 
Larry about to start up the Bear hug
The following pitch is the classic "Bearhug pitch". These twin 5" cracks take some creative climbing to avoid finding yourself bearhugging the rock. Here Larry poses for a shot before starting up.
 
Paul on the bear hug pitch
After cruising the pitch Paul looks up to smile for a great photo op.
 
Larry leads the upper ridge
Slightly higher is a dramatic ridge that offers quality moderate, though minimally protected climbing. Here Larry works his way up the ridge.
 
Paul works his way up the ridge
Here is Paul on the same section of ridge.
 
Paul feeling the majesty of the mountains
It's hard not to feel the magic and grandeur of the North Cascades, high on a route like this one, on a bluebird day.
 
summit shot
We took a short lunch break on the summit, which we had all to ourselves - the beauty of climbing midweek at Washington Pass.
 
larry rapping at the bottom of the South Arete
We descended the classic South Arete route. It involves downclimbing all but the last section, which we rappelled. Here Larry rappels down to where Scooby patiently awaits, excited for the ski out!
 
Paul shreds down
After a fantastic day of climbing, we topped it off with a quick and enjoyable 30 minute ski back to the car. The snow was a bit slow being so late in the day, though we kept laughing to ourselves at how much it beat walking....
 
 
 


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