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Mooses Tooth Expedition

Pat Luke and Robin DeSota - May 7 - 14th, 2007

 
NCMG guide Jeff Ward planned a trip with two returning guests to the Ruth gorge area of the Alaska range in Denali National Park. Their goal would be the "Ham and Eggs" route on the Mooses Tooth.
 
SW Rib of SEWS
Robin and Pat happy to be on the Ruth Glacier. Our ride and Mount Dickey in the Background
 
Basecamp on the Ruth Glacier
Basecamp on the Ruth Glacier.
 
Unfortunately, we were unable to fly in directly to the route, so we had to climb the Root Canal Icefall with all of our gear.
 
It was a lot of working moving our gear up the icefall but the views from Ridge Camp were amazing. Below camp is the Ruth Amphitheater and Denali.
 
Looking up at the South Face of Mooses Tooth. The route follows the gully just out of sight below the right skyline.
 
Pat finishing up the easy section of pitch one. Below was a fun mixed pitch on good granite
 
Robin finishing up pitch four.
 
The plan was to climb the first four pitches of the route for training. It was a perfect training day. It gave everyone a chance to get into the grove. We then rapped back down the route and took a rest day. Unfortunately the weather turned from this...
 
..to moderate snow and moderate winds which caused a few avalanches. Since we were unable to land on the Root Canal and burned some time approaching the climb we didn't have enough time to wait out the storm, so down we went back to basecamp
 
Luckily we were well stocked with food..
 
.and drinks. We actually had enough drinks to host a little basecamp party.
 
It was a shame to head back home without finishing the route, but I think Pat and Robin had a good time - just check out Robin's expression. I believe that's laughter, but it could be that he just doesn't want to leave the mountains. By the time the three of us returned home we had already made firm plans for next year. Same time, same place.
 
 
 


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