Cascade Classics
Mike B. June 29th - July 4th, 2008
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| The weather has locked into a solid high pressure
in the North Cascades and Mike B's timing for a week of climbing
couldn't be better. Mike joined Larry for a few Washington Pass
classics before heading into North Cascades National Park for
the classic West ridge of Forbidden peak. |
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| The first route we took on was the Chockstone
route on North Early Winter spire. After climbing around
the giant chockstone, we kicked steps up a short, but
steep snow patch before regaining the rock. |
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| Once back on the rock, the route climbs
enjoyable, moderate rock for several pitches up to the
summit. |
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| Mike, glad to be back in the sun. |
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| The descent requires rappelling over
the route's namesake chockstone. The crux pitch itself
can be seen as the arcing corner that comes in just above
the chockstone on the left side of this photo. |
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| One of Washington pass' true locals strikes
a pose for us as we descend. |
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| The following day, we hiked back into
the area to climb the SW rib of South Early Winter Spire.
This fun, 8 pitch route offers a little of everything.
Here Mike finishes the exposed traverse of the "nervous
pitch". |
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| Several pitches higher, Mike moves confidently
up the exposed arete crest. |
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| Our next venue was Boston Basin, with
the classic West ridge of Forbidden as our objective.
Here Mike gets camp set up in front of the massive backdrop
of Mt Johannesburg. |
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| Looking the other way, the route is clearly
visible. After climbing up snow to reach the glacier,
the route heads into the narrow couliour which leads to
the base of the West ridge, seen here as the left hand
skyline of the peak just left of center. |
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| The climbing on the route is quite moderate,
with incredible exposure on both sides of the ridge. |
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| Higher up we climbed into the sun and
enjoyed views of Eldorado peak and Moraine lake. |
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| As one of the "50 classic climbs
of North America", this is a route that every climber
must do at some point. |
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| We returned to our base in Mazama, for
one final climb at Washington pass. We finished up on
Spontaneity arete of Le Petit Cheval for another 8 pitches
of quality crack climbing. |
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| The route offers pitch after pitch of
hand and finger cracks at a moderate 5.7 grade. |
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| Here Mike delicately crosses the slab
several pitches below the summit. |
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| The summit views of Silver Star and the
Wine Spires are among the best in the area and help to
inspire Mike to start planning his next trip. |
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