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Les and Jolene Lovett

European Alps - August 14-20, 2006

 
Longtime NCMG clients, Les and Jolene Lovett of Bowling Green, Kentucky joined Larry this summer for a week of climbing in the Alps. Based out of the alpine mecca of Chamonix, they rented an apartment for a week and did daytrips each day in the birthplace of alpine climbing.
 
Les Gailland
We spent day one working on rock climbing skills at a local crag a short walk from downtown Chamonix. This served to hone the skills we would use for the remainder of the week as well as having an easy first day to overcome jetlag. Here Les gets some mileage.
 
multi pitch
We also covered the skills involved in a multipitch climb. Here Jolene follows the pitch first, while Les, belayed on a second rope can be seen below.
 
gearing up for the Fete des Guides
Much of the climbing area at "Les Gaillands" was closed for the day to prepare for the annual Chamonix Guides Festival. The guides had an elaborate ropes course set up for kids to play on that evening.
 
Auigilles Rouge
The next day we had hoped to do a climb in the Auigilles Rouges, on the South facing side of the valley. Unfortunately, there had been considerable new snow from a recent storm. While this side of the valley has very little snow in the summer and typically offers some easily accessible alpine rock climbing, it was currently in full winter conditions. Our climb over here would have to wait a few days.
 
Le Tour
We opted instead to ride the bus to a little village at the head of the valley to attempt a glacier climb. The town of Le Tour is a charming little village characteristic of hamlets in the Alps.
 
Tete Blanche
Our climb would be on the Tete Blanche, which is the highest snowy point in the photo. A long, yet moderate glacier climb, this route would serve well to help us acclimatize.
 
Approaching Albert 1er hut
Here, Jolene approaches the Albert 1er hut situated right next to the spectacular Tour glacier. Note the typical Alps size pack that she is wearing.
 
Descending below Tour glacier
Running a bit short on time, we turned back just short of the summit so we wouldn't risk missing the last cable car down to the valley and having to descend an additional 3500'. We enjoyed a very leisurely lunch and a great hike back to the chairlift on a glorious day in the mountains.
 
in the Cosmiques Hut
The following day we decided to stay on the snowy side of the valley and do another acclimatization trip. We rode up the famous Auigille du Midi cablecar (a 9000' ascent), and downclimbed into the Vallee Blanche. Here we crossed the upper glacier and walked to the Cosmiques hut for a bit of lunch.
 
Jolene in front of Mt Blanc
The weather was in and out during the day, and finally we got some views of the amazing peaks around us. Here Jolene poses in front of Mt Blanc.
 
on the knife edge ridge of the AUgille Du Midi
After taking many photos and walking around at over 12,000' for a while, we reascended the extremely exposed, knife edge snow ridge back to the telepherique (cablecar). Here Les and Jolene stop for a quick shot. If it was a touch less cloudy, Chamonix could be seen over Les' shoulder 9000' below!
 
Approaching Col Des Crochues
The following day we decided to venture over to the Auigilles Rouges as much of the new snow had melted away. There was still much more than normal making our ascent of the "Traverse de les Crochues" seem a bit more alpine.
 
on the traverse
This traverse is a moderate, yet exposed ridge traverse with incredible views across at the Mt Blanc range.
 
summit shot
We took a short break on the summit of the Crochues, before continuing the traverse to the snowy slopes above Lac Blanc.
 
On the way to Lac Blanc
We unroped to descend the easy snow slopes that lead down to Lac Blanc and a small hut that serves incredible pastries. In the background behind Les is a view across of the Tour glacier and the Tete Blanche where we had climbed a few days earlier.
 
hiking down to the Flegere cablecar
From Lac Blanc, we enjoyed a beautiful hike down to the mid station of the cablecar, through open meadows and rocky cliffs.
 
 
Les and Jolene on the second pitch
For our final climb, we opted for the Augille de L'Index. This small, but striking peak is a mere 20 minutes from the top of the chairlift. The Arete Sud-est, or Southeast ridge, is the classic route on the peak. Here Les and Jolene climb on the second pitch of the route.
 
Jolene midway up the climb
The clouds rolled in and out all day, though we got some views across the valley and small glimpses of the dramatic exposure below our feet. Here Jolene traverses the ridge at about mid height on the climb.
 
 
Les near the top
The exposure really increases toward the top and the clouds parted to allow us a view of Le Praz, far below. Here Les follows the 6th pitch just below the top.
 
 
Auigille de L'Index
The clouds burned off and we enjoyed a pleasant lunch near the top and a short walk back to the lift. L'Index proved to be a perfect climb to finish a great week of climbing in the Alps.
 
 
 
 


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