Haute Route 2005
European Alps - April 15-23
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| In April, Larry Goldie and IFMGA guide Jeff
Ward teamed up to lead a trip on the fabled European Haute route
from Chamonix, France to Zermatt, Switzerland. The group, which
proved to be an amazing crew, came from a wide geographic area.
The team consisted of NCMG's office manager Sussi Rowntree and
her husband, Larry Miller, of Winthrop, WA, Kerie Raymond of
Seattle,WA, Bob Havard of Bend, OR, Cole Hanley of Huron,OH
and Liana Dicus of Truckee, CA. The trip dealt us some really
challenging weather and it is a testament to everyone's positive
attitudes that we managed to have so much fun along the way. |
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| We met in Chamonix at the Hotel L'’arve,
right on the banks of the river L'arve. We spent 3 nights
here, the first with a pretrip meeting, the following
night scrambling to adapt to a huge storm on the way and
the next getting ready to leave for 7 more days! Here
we are heading to the Augille du Midi Telepherique for
our first day of skiing. |
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| The first day is typically a shakedown
day skiing the Vallee Blanche out of Chamonix. Normally
this is one of the most spectacular ski descents in the
world with over 9000 vertical feet of skiing possible.
On this particular day, the weather was marginal at best
and while we did pull off the descent, much of it was
spent snowplowing in visibility like this. |
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| The following day the storm continued
with as much as 10" of new snow falling and continued
whiteout conditions. We spent the day skiing the pistes
of the Grand Montets ski area in Argentiere. Given these
conditions and a continued stormy forecast, we knew it
wasn't safe to attempt the normal route to the Trient
Hut and on to the Valsorey and the famous Plateau du Coliour.
Luckily, there are options for these situations on the
Haute Route, so on the morning of day three we made our
way over to the train station with over 10" of new
snow in Chamonix! |
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| We opted to take advantage of the incredible
transit system and take the train to the little village
of Le Chable at the base of the vast Verbier ski complex.
Four hours later we were loading the tram in Verbier and
preparing to start the tour from there. Here Kerie transfers
gear in Martigny where we changed trains. |
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| After another day of whiteout navigation
to the Mont Fort Hut, we celebrated the fact that at least
we had begun the journey. Around the table from left to
right are Larry Miller, Sussi, Liana, Bob, Kerie and the
back of Cole's head. The hut keeper can be seen in the
background of this beautiful and finely crafted old wooden
hut. |
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| The next morning as we headed up to the
Col des Chaux we got our first views of the trip. They
weren't much more than teasing glimpses, but enough to
let us know that we were traveling amongst giants. |
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| Here Sussi enjoys some nice skiing with
the Grand Combin in the background. The Classic route
travels over the left hand shoulder of this huge peak.
The weather continued to roll in and out throughout the
day and moments like this had us all glowing. |
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| The clouds have rolled back in, but this
was literally and figuratively a high point of the trip.
As a quick side trip we climbed to the top of the Rosablanche
(3277m). Here Jeff, Sussi and Larry pose next to the summit
marker. |
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| After a long and enjoyable ski down the
Glacier du Praflueri, the Praflueri hut comes into view.
This is a beautiful, modern hut that was rebuilt recently
to replace an aging hut that can be seen directly behind
it. |
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| The following day was again spent skiing
in a whiteout, though we arrived that night at the Dix
hut. This hut was quite full and had a very festive atmosphere.
We had scheduled an extra day at this hut due to the weather
forecast, so with a rest day in mind we began our midway
celebration. We enjoyed French wine, the company of a
great many other skiers, some live music and even a bit
of swing dancing.... Here (L to R) sit Larry Miller, Sussi,
Larry Goldie, Jeff, Kerie, Bob and Cole. |
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| After our scheduled rest day (where we
snuck in a little more whiteout skiing), it finally dawned
clear. We were all a bit awestruck by the mountains that
surrounded us. Here Liana and Sussi pose outside the hut
with Mt Blanc Du Chelion in the background. |
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| With about 16" of new snow, we made
our way to the Col Tsijiore. In the background is La Luette
where we had skied the day before in an absolute whiteout.
The Dix hut is just out of view at the bottom right of
the photo. |
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| Here our whole group poses on top of
the Pigne d'Arolla (3796m), the actual high point of the
trip. Morale was high as we prepared for our descent to
the VIgnettes hut with 16" of new snow. |
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| Sussi linking nice turns down the wide
open east face of the Pigne d'Arolla. The slope offered
some good skiing, but was slightly wind affected and had
received some sun that morning. No one complained too
much about the conditions... |
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| After arriving at the Vignettes hut,
we coulden't help but notice a beautiful, largely untracked
North facing slope just below the hut. This photo is immediately
following the first of 3 laps we took on this slope. Oddly
enough, while we were out enjoying this incredible sunny
powder skiing, there were at least 50 people just sitting
around both inside and outside the hut. |
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| On the morning of day 8, we awake early
to begin the first of three climbs leading to the incredible
7500', 14 km descent down the Stockji glacier into Zermatt.
Here guides Larry Goldie (left) and Jeff Ward pose in
front of the Matterhorn at the Col de Valepine, just prior
to the final descent into Zermatt. |
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| After arriving in Zermatt and spending
an extra day skiing the pistes (in a whiteout), here we
are all cleaned up at Grampy's for a final celebration.
Unfortunately, Bob was already off on another adventure,
but we toasted to him as well as many other people and
events of what was an incredibly fun and memorable trip.
(L to R) Jeff, Larry G., Liana, Sussi, Larry M, Cole and
Kerie. |
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