Todd and Cheryl Holt have been climbing with
NCMG practically since our beginning. They have climbed numerous
classic peaks in the North Cascades and the next on the list
was the west ridge of Forbidden in the North Cascades National
Park. The route, first climbed in 1940 by Fred Beckey et al.,
is one of Steck and Roper's 50 classic climbs in North America
and is well-appreciated for its quality rock, stupendous position
and demanding challenges, both on the ascent and descent.
A view of Forbidden from Boston Basin. The west ridge
stands out as part of the left skyline. The couloir
that allows excellent access to the ridge is partly
discernible above the small, unnamed glacier below Forbidden's
south face.
Magnificent views of Mt. Johannesberg
and other Cascade peaks abound from Boston Basin.
A view from the upper camp of the Quien
Sabe Glacier and Boston and Sahale peaks.
A steep exit from the couloir just below
the ridge.
Much of the climbing follows the ridge
with a few forays onto the NW face above the Forbidden
Glacier.
Superb ridge climbing near the summit
with memorable views of Moraine Lake and Eldorado Mountain.
One of several rappels as the descent
is as involved as the climb itself. As they say, there
is no easy way off Forbidden.
Cheryl at one of the rappel stations
just below the ridge.
