Classic climbs: Southwest coulior on SEWS

The Southwest Coulior on South Early Winter Spire is a unique climb for an area best known for its alpine rock climbing. Only in shape for a few weeks to months just after the highway opens, this is not only a great snow climb, but the quickest route to the summit of the the South Spire.

While it does offer some steep snow, the bulk of the climb is fairly moderate. With snow and occasionally ice up to 50 degrees, the route is steep enough to keep your attention, but short enough to keep the climb reasonable. When approached on skis, this climb offers the bonus of a quick and fun descent back to the car at the end of the day. The route can easily be done in crampon compatible ski boots.

Mihai near the top of the Southwest Coulior on SEWS

Coming through the crux of the Southwest Coulior.

What to Expect:

Depending on conditions, we will start the either the Blue lake trailhead or the hairpin turn off of Highway 20. The approach is often best done on skis, though snowshoes or sometimes bare boots can work just fine.

After caching skis at the base of the coulior, we will don harnesses, helmets and crampons and begin the climb. We will typically use a mix of moving together and pitching out leads to reach the top of the spire. There are generally good rock anchors on the sides of the coulior, and good stances to break up the climb.

Once on top of the tallest spire in the Liberty Bell group, views range from Silver Star to the East, to Mt Baker to the North, to Dome peak to the West and the Sawtooth range to the south.
From the top, we will downclimb the route right back to the base and our cached gear. After clicking back into our skis, we can either swoosh back down to the car, or take a second ski run in Liberty Bowl.

Climbing up the main section of the Coulior.

Necessary Skills:

Previous experience climbing with crampons and ice axe
Good physical fitness

Combine with:

There are so many great alpine rock climbs in this region. A couple of the not to be missed classics are Beckey Route on Liberty Bell and the South Arete, also on South Early Winter spire. These tend to be moderate rock climbing routes all summer, but can be super fun alpine climbs in the early season.

More information:

Click here for information on training for alpine climbing
Recommended Reading: Selected climbs in the Cascades, volume 1

Click below to see photos from a few previous climbs of the Southwest Coulior of South Early Winter Spire:

Just below the summit of South Early Winter Spire.