Classic climbs: South Arete on South Early Winter Spire

The South Arete is one of the most joyful climbs we have ever done. While it has a very moderate rating, many of our guides consider it a favorite climb. The combination of a beautiful, scenic approach, great rock, fun climbing and awesome exposure make this one hard to beat.

The route has a long season, and can be done in the very early or late season with snow on the route for a full alpine experience. During the bulk of the climbing season, it is dry and offers a mix of great scrambling and short steps of low fifth class climbing. It is a great climb for moving quickly in preparation for a bigger alpine objective, or having a comfortable relaxed day on a spectacular perch on the highest summit of the Early Winter massif.

This is a climb that can be accomplished by most people, even with a minimal climbing background. While the climbing is fairly easy, it feels real enough and often exposed enough, that you will certainly feel like you have just climbed a mountain.

Climbers working their way along the skyline ridge of the South Arete.

What to Expect:

Depending on conditions, we will start the either the Blue lake trailhead or the hairpin turn off of Highway 20. Early in the season when there is snow in Spire Gully, it is the preferred approach as it offers the quick and fun option of a glissade right back to the car. Later in the Season we will start from the Blue lake trailhead. After hiking about two miles up the trail, we will exit onto a climbers trail that meanders steeply up into the upper basin. The approach usually takes between an hour and half to two hours.

From here, we will rope up and begin getting ready for the climb. Many climbers will enjoy the added security of rock climbing shoes for this route, while more experienced climbers might like the challenge or training that climbing in boots will offer. Climbing with a pack is also optional, and there is a perfect spot to cache gear at the base of the route. The climb itself takes a couple of hours and is a mix of moving together with the guide and short pitches of steeper, belayed climbing. Views from the top are outstanding and it is a summit worth lounging on, at least long enough to enjoy some lunch!
From the top, we will downclimb the route right back to the base and our cached gear. From here, we will either glissade back to the car or enjoy the views to the West as we hike down Liberty Bowl in the afternoon sun.

Vince works his way up through one of the fun sections of moderate climbing on the route..

Necessary Skills:

Good physical fitness

Combine with:

There are so many great alpine rock climbs in this region. One of the best moderate climbs is the Beckey Route on Liberty Bell. The South Buttress of Cutthroat is good step up in difficulty and can be viewed to advantage on the hike out of Liberty Bowl.

More information:

Click here for information on training for alpine climbing
Recommended Reading: Selected climbs in the Cascades, volume 1

Click below to see photos from a few previous climbs of the South Arete of South Early Winter Spire:

Just below the summit of South Early Winter Spire in late season conditions.