New Route Information |
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There has been quite a bit of new route development in our
area in recent years. Some of these climbs have the potential
to be popular, classic routes that many climbers would like
to know about. Since most of these routes are not published
in any guidebook, NCMG will provide descriptions, photos and
topos, when available, of these routes. Feel free to use this
page as a resource and let us know of any new climbs that
you would like to see here.
Sysiphus III 5.11a
This
is a 9 pitch bolted route on a prominent buttress of Goat
Wall. Established over a few years by several NCMG guides,
the work involved at times had the feel of rolling a giant
rock up hill all day only to let it roll down and start again
the next day. Thus the name, Sysiphus. The route is rated
5.11a, though the climbers can pull on draws through the crux
making the manditory freeclimbing 5.10b. While the climb is
bolted, it is not as bolted as a sport route. The climbing
is well protected where it needs to be, but climbers should
be solid at the grade.
Download topo as a PDF
View Topo
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Gato Negro IV 5.10
This
route was established by Scott Johnston and Larry Goldie on
June 21, 2001.
The route lies on west face of Silver Star N ridge right of
the wine spires on it's own separate tower we named Whine
Spire since our feet were giving us serious fits at the end.The
climb includes11 pitches, 5 of which are 5.10 and a lot of
fun 5.7/8 hand cracks. The splitter crack direct finish pitch
is a thrilling and spectacuar ending to what is becoming known
as one of the best new lines in the area. Descent is down
the big gully seperating the Whine Spire form Silver Star
to the S. A combination of downclimbing and rappells put you
back at the base of the route.
Download Topo as a PDF
View Topo
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Spontanaety Arete
This
is a fun moderate route offering about 7 pitches of climbing
up to 5.7. Located on Le Petit Cheval, a formation situated
about halfway between the Wine Spires and the Early Winter
Spires, this small summit offers great climbing, awesome views
and a short approach. First climbed in June of 2004 by Scott
Johnston and Larry Goldie, the route follows the obvious West
facing arete to the spire's tiny summit. After seeing many
ascents this summer, the consensus is that the route offers
some of the best moderate climbing in the Washington Pass
area.
Download Topo as PDF
View Topo
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Burgandy Spire - East
face
. "Action Potential" 1st ascent of Burgundy Spire's East Face.
Grade III, 5.10a-5.10c, 5-7pitches. First climbed by Mark
Allen & Mike Layton on July 19, 2004. Lines "A"
and "B" on the photo to the left.
Download
Topo as PDF
View Topo
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Burgandy Spire - Northeast
face
. "Ultramega O.K" 1st ascent of Burgundy Spire's East Face.
Grade III, 5.11a-5.10A0, 5-7pitches. First climbed by Mark
Allen & Tom Smith on July 25, 2004. Line "C" on
the photo to the left.
Download
Topo as PDF
View Topo
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