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New Route Information
 


There has been quite a bit of new route development in our area in recent years. Some of these climbs have the potential to be popular, classic routes that many climbers would like to know about. Since most of these routes are not published in any guidebook, NCMG will provide descriptions, photos and topos, when available, of these routes. Feel free to use this page as a resource and let us know of any new climbs that you would like to see here.

 

Sysiphus III 5.11a

Scott on the 3rd pitchThis is a 9 pitch bolted route on a prominent buttress of Goat Wall. Established over a few years by several NCMG guides, the work involved at times had the feel of rolling a giant rock up hill all day only to let it roll down and start again the next day. Thus the name, Sysiphus. The route is rated 5.11a, though the climbers can pull on draws through the crux making the manditory freeclimbing 5.10b. While the climb is bolted, it is not as bolted as a sport route. The climbing is well protected where it needs to be, but climbers should be solid at the grade.

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Gato Negro IV 5.10

West face of Silver StarThis route was established by Scott Johnston and Larry Goldie on June 21, 2001.
The route lies on west face of Silver Star N ridge right of the wine spires on it's own separate tower we named Whine Spire since our feet were giving us serious fits at the end.The climb includes11 pitches, 5 of which are 5.10 and a lot of fun 5.7/8 hand cracks. The splitter crack direct finish pitch is a thrilling and spectacuar ending to what is becoming known as one of the best new lines in the area. Descent is down the big gully seperating the Whine Spire form Silver Star to the S. A combination of downclimbing and rappells put you back at the base of the route.

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Spontanaety Arete

Le Petit ChevalThis is a fun moderate route offering about 7 pitches of climbing up to 5.7. Located on Le Petit Cheval, a formation situated about halfway between the Wine Spires and the Early Winter Spires, this small summit offers great climbing, awesome views and a short approach. First climbed in June of 2004 by Scott Johnston and Larry Goldie, the route follows the obvious West facing arete to the spire's tiny summit. After seeing many ascents this summer, the consensus is that the route offers some of the best moderate climbing in the Washington Pass area.

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Burgandy Spire - East face

Burgundy East Face . "Action Potential" 1st ascent of Burgundy Spire's East Face. Grade III, 5.10a-5.10c, 5-7pitches. First climbed by Mark Allen & Mike Layton on July 19, 2004. Lines "A" and "B" on the photo to the left.


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Burgandy Spire - Northeast face

Tyrolean Traverse . "Ultramega O.K" 1st ascent of Burgundy Spire's East Face. Grade III, 5.11a-5.10A0, 5-7pitches. First climbed by Mark Allen & Tom Smith on July 25, 2004. Line "C" on the photo to the left.

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