Climb the North Face of Mount Shuksan

Mt. Shuksan (9,127’) is one of the most impressive peaks in the North Cascades. Large hanging glaciers capped with a beautiful rock summit pyramid make Shuksan a difficult mountain to climb especially from the north. The North Face Route, when in condition, allows for a reasonable although difficult way up this imposing face.

The North Face of Shuksan is on the list of classic north faces in the Cascades. The others include the North Face of Mount Buckner and Liberty Ridge on Mount Rainier. The difficulties encountered on this route are similar to the ones found on Liberty Ridge but at a lower elevation. If you have already climbed Buckner’s north face this would be the next step.

Part of the beauty of this route is its circular nature. You start on the north side of the mountain, climb the south face of the summit pyramid and descend the west face. The amount of terrain covered in this climb makes the climb difficult but the variety keeps the climb enjoyable throughout.

At teh top of the difficulties on the North Face

At the top of the difficulites.

What to Expect:

The climb of the North Face is typically done as a three-day climb, camping at the base of the North Face on night one and high on the mountain on night two. The climb starts from the Mt. Baker ski area and initially starts with a downhill approach into the White Salmon drainage. The first night’s camp is made on a safe perch at the base of the impressive North Face, with the towering seracs of the Hanging Glacier above.

After an early alpine start you will rope up and start working your way up the North Face. The climbing consists of mostly steep snow, with the possibility of some moderate ice and easy rock depending on conditions. The steep climbing on the face starts at approximately 5,600’ and continues all the way to the glacial plateau at 8,000’. Depending on conditions camp will either be made before topping out on the summit pyramid or after. Which ever option is chosen the summit pyramid will be climbed by the normal South Face or the rocky Southeast Ridge.

The second night’s camp is made on the Upper Curtis or Hanging Glacier. The descent is made via the Fisher Chimneys on the West Face of the mountain. This will involve some 3rd class down climbing and some lowers down the steeper 4th class sections. The route will eventually lead you to a nice hiking trail that leads back to the trailhead.

Climbing the last bit of rock to the summit of Mt Shuksan.

Necessary Skills:

Prior glacier climbing experience
Prior moderate ice climbing experience
Excellent physical fitness - able to keep moving continuously with short breaks for up to 12 hours while wearing an overnight pack.

Combine with:

As with all steep North Faces, snow conditions and weather play a large roll in the success and safety of the climb. NCMG recommends allocating extra days into this three-day itinerary to ensure good climbing conditions. These days can be spent enjoying some classic climbs around the Washington Pass area. Climbs such as the Southwest Couloir on South Early Winter Spire and Whistler Peak can be good warm-ups for the North Face.

More information:

Click here for information on training for alpine climbing
Recommended reading: Selected climbs in the Cascades: volume 1

The classic view of Shuksan from the Mt Baker ski area

The classic view of Mt Shuksan from Picture lake in late fall conditions. The North face is seen in profile on the left hand side.