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Boots - Rigid, insulated mountain boots. Ideally
one of the modern insulated leather boots, though
plastic boots will work as well.
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Approach shoes -A beefy pair of hikers for doing
climbs on the non snowy side of the Chamonix valley.
You might cross some small sections of snow in
these, but you will also carry them in your pack
on climbs.
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Gaiters – Necessary for snow travel.
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Socks – Wool or synthetic. Avoid cotton.
A single heavy weight pair is best. A pair of
liners with a medium sock also works well. Bring
a spare change.
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Pants – Synthetic preferred. Pants made
from Schoeler Fabric such as Patagonia's "Guide
Pants", or Black Diamond's "Alpine pants" are
great options.
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Long Underwear - Top and bottoms: Capilene or
polypropylene recommended.
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Lightweight shirt - A lightweight fleece (Patagonia's
R1) or wool shirt.
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Jacket - Synthetic, pile or wool. Patagonia's
"puffball" or similar synthetic is a great option
as its lighter, warmer and more packable than
fleece.
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Shell gear - Gore-tex parka with hood and pants
as lightweight as possible. These will live in
your pack for much of the trip. Side zips on your
pants are nice for pulling on over boots.
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Gloves- Two pairs: one insulated with shell,
the other lightweight, such as a windstopper fleece
or nordic ski glove. Mittens are not recommended.
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Sun cap/hat – Quick drying preferable.
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Warm Hat - A wool or fleece ski hat.
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Street clothes and shoes - For time spent in
town. It's nice to have a collar shirt or two
for going out to eat.
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Shorts and T-shirts - For hiking and climbing
around the valley floor. It's still summer down
in town!
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Climbing Gear -
Much of this gear is available for rent or purchase
at good prices in Chamonix.
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Crampons - We suggest a standard flat frame alpine
crampon such as the Black Diamond Sabretooth or
the Grivel G12. You will also need rubber anti
balling plates (called antibottes) specific to
your crampons. Many crampons come standard with
these. Bring a small lightweight stuff sack for
storing your crampons in your pack. You won't
need a heavy case with padding and zippers.
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Ice axe - A general all purpose ice axe. I use
a 53cm Grivel airtech evolution and love it. Your
axe need not be more than 60cm tall.
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Approach Shoe Crampons - If you have a pair of
strap on crampons (these can be aluminum) bring
them along, otherwise let us know and we may be
able to provide some.
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Climbing Harness - A versatile, lightweight harness
is best. Ideally one with a belay loop and adjustable
leg loops. Gear loops are critical on the harness.
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Carabiners - Bring 2 lockers and 2 non lockers.
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Belay/ Rappel device -Plate type device like
the Black Diamond ATC or the Petzl Reverso.
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Rock Shoes - These should be comfortable shoes
that can ideally be worn with thin socks.
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Helmet – Must be specific for climbing/
mountaineering.
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Miscellaneous gear
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Pack -Around 3000 cubic inches or about 30-35
liters is ideal. Much bigger and the pack gets
too heavy and does not climb well. This is merely
a day pack as you won't be carrying camping gear.
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Headlamp - A necessary tool for early starts.
One of the new lightweight combinations LED and
Halogen are great for nighttime climbs. A simple
LED model will work fine as well.
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Food - Lunches and favorite snacks. An adequate
amount for high-energy days. Lunch food can be
purchased in huts or in town. This usually consists
of Bread, cheese, salami and chocolate. Stock
up on energy bars or Gu in the states if you use
these snacks.
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Water bottles - Carry at least a quart. Many
people like to carry 2. Collapsible bottles like
the platypus take up less room in your pack as
you drink water. Hydration bladders work well.
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Sunscreen/ lip protection - SPF higher than 30.
A small tube should last the entire trip. Many
Dermatone products work for both skin and lips.
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Sunglasses - With 100% UV protection. Consider
wearing with retention straps. Changeable lenses
are great for variable light conditions. Smith's
slider series offers this option. Dark lenses
are a must and many people use side shields as
well.
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Personal med kit - Mostly just for blisters and
hotspots. Molefoam, athletic tape and Spenco's
second skin all work well. Your guide will carry
some of this, but bring some of your own if you
are prone to foot issues. You may also want to
consider bringing a small amount of Tylenol or
ibuprofin, antacids (ie- Pepto Bismol, Rolaids)
and a few Bandaids.
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Pocket Knife - Simple and Light. Mostly just
for cutting bread and cheese.
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Duffel Bag - For leaving gear in hotels while
in the mountains.
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Money - Most huts require cash. ATM cards are
a good way to get cash in country without paying
an exchange fee. Be sure to memorize your PIN
as a series of numbers as the letters are not
always on the cash machines.
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Optional Gear:
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Trekking Poles - Adjustable poles are great for
improving balance, saving energy and sparing your
knees. The 3 section poles are nice as they won't
make you a lightning rod when they are strapped
to your pack. Keep them fairly short so that your
hands are below your navel when standing on flat
ground. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!
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Camera- Most likely you will want to document
this great adventure. Try to get a carrying case
that fits on your pack and will not interfere
with your climbing. If you keep your camera inside
your pack you won't take many pictures.
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Ear Plugs - Some people like these to sleep in
noisy huts.
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Neck Gaitor - In Europe a product called a "Buff"
is extremely popular and can work for everything
from a neck gaitor to a hat, to a headband, to
a balaclava. Ask your guide for a short demo of
the many uses of a Buff.
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Toiletries - Keep it simple. A tiny tube of toothpaste
and travel toothbrush is all you will need for
nights in huts. A few wetwipes will feel like
a real luxury.
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