North Cascades Mountain Guides -

Classic Climbs - Very Difficult

Classic Climbs

Non-Technical
Moderate
Intermediate
Difficult
Very Difficult

These climbs are the hardest in the area and generally are attempted only with clients who have the requisite experience needed for such demanding routes. That said, these classic lines are superb. Each of these climbs has a unique character and was chosen to be part of this group for a specific reason. As you will note, all these are in the Washington Pass area. We are truly blessed by having such a high concentration of top quality hard routes. Come challenge yourself on these classic test pieces with one of our expert guides.

Liberty Bell, Liberty Crack

A true big wall climb on the massive clean sweep of granite that is the east face of Liberty Bell, the northernmost of the Washington Pass spires. This 12 pitch route on excellent rock will test both free and aid climbing skills. For most parties this will be a 2 day climb and is sure to push your skills to a new level.

Grade V, class 5.9 A2
Time: 2 days

Looking directly up the east face up Liberty Bell at one of Americas most sought after alpine rock routes. Here a portoledge can be seen just left of the 4th pitch.

South Early Winter Spire, Direct East Buttress

One of the most aesthetic and direct lines in the entire Washington Pass area; this route ascends the narrow and steep buttress to the highest summit in the spires group. The clean and solid rock of the crest holds some of the best pitches in the area and the exposure is unmatched. If climbed all free, the 2 crux pitches go at 5.11, however these pitches can be easily aided as they are bolt protected. Most of the rest of the 10 pitches are in the 5.8-5.9 range. After a long invigorating day like this, you'll appreciate the mellow descent down the regular South Arete route and the easy trail back to the Blue Lake parking lot.

Grade III+, 5.9A1 or 5.11
Time: 1 day

Here the buttress can be seen in sharp contrast forming one of the most aesthetic lines in the Washington pass area.

NCMG guide Paul Butler frees the first bolt ladder pitch on the Direct East Butress.

North Early Winter Spire, West Face

Another great one day outing on superb rock in a wonderful alpine setting. This outstanding 6 pitch route makes up in quality what it lacks in length and is perfect for the strong rock climber without a lot of alpine or "trad" experience. The 5.11 thin finger crack on the fifth pitch leads to a true classic 5.10 splitter hand crack on the sixth pitch.

Grade III, class 5.11
Time: 1 day

The West face route takes the proud middle line up this spire with the crux pitches clearly visible as the streak splitting the headwall.

Chianti Spire, East Face

On the second of the Wine spires, this 6 pitch route combines all the elements for an unforgettable alpine experience. Starting from a high camp, we climb over Burgundy col and out onto the lower Silver Star glacier for a short distance. High quality rock and unrelenting steepness, combined with the backdrop of the glacier and the craggy spires of Silver Star Mountain, create a feeling of high mountain remoteness. From the tiny 1x2ft summit breathtaking views in every direction reward your perseverance.

Grade III, class 5.10
Time: 2 days

Sysiphus

This 10 pitch route on Goat wall was put up by several of our guides. It offers sustained technical climbing with stunning views. A great place to test your skills.

Grade III, class 5.11a or 5.10c A0 Time: 1 day (6-7 hours)		Here the route can be seen climbing the central buttress of Goat wall.
View Topo (PDF)	NCMG guide Scott Johnston on the 3rd pitch (5.10b) of Sisyphus with Mt Gardener in the background.