North Cascades Mountain Guides -

Classic Climbs - Moderate

Classic Climbs

Non-Technical
Moderate
Intermediate
Difficult
Very Difficult

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The climbs listed here require some previous climbing experience. Any of these climbs can be preceded by skills training to give you the necessary experience to confidently and safely accomplish these climbs.
Left to Right - South Early Winter Spire (SEWS), North Early Winter Spire(NEWS), Lexington Tower, Concord Tower and Liberty Bell.

South Early Winter Spire, South Arete

The perfect introduction to alpine rock climbing. The South Arete combines a mixture of technical climbing and lots of scrambling, with exposure, clean rock and the highest summit in the range.

Grade II 5.4
Time: 1 day

The south arête forms the left skyline in this photo.

Two climbers high on the south arête .

South Early Winter Spire, Southwest Couloir

This is an early season snow and ice climb in a couloir bordered by towering walls of granite. While not technically difficult, the route has a distinct alpine flavor which often includes short stretches of rock usually climbed in crampons. The season is short on this one, so get it while it's "in".

Grade II, 30 - 50 degree snow
Time: 1 day

The South Arete is seen straight on from the top of spire gully. The sw couliour can be seen rising from the snow patches and disappears between the South Arête and the SW rib.

Silver Star Mountain, Silver Star Glacier

An outstanding climb in a rugged and wild setting, Silver Star is a must do for Cascade climbers. Usually done in two days, we begin by hiking to a high camp on a beautiful bench on the mountain's west side. The next morning it's up and over a high col giving access to the glacier. After climbing snow up to 35 degrees we scramble up a short rock section leading to the tiny summit and 360 degree vistas.

Grade II, class 3,
35 degree snow
Time: 2 days

The west side of silver star and the wine spires. The campsite is located on the bench in the lower left of the photo.

The north side of Silver Star in late season conditions. The glacier can be seen on the right leading up to Silver Star saddle.

Liberty Bell, Beckey Route

Quite possibly the most popular rock climb in all of the Cascades. The Beckey route offers four pitches of sustained and varied fifth class climbing on clean, solid granite with views that get better with every pitch.

Outside Magazine, June 2003 featured this route.

Grade II, class 5.6
Time:1 day

Topping out on the first pitch of the Beckey route and climbing into the sun

Enjoying the clean granite of the chimney pitch as the exposure increases.

Approaching the crux of the 3rd pitch friction traverse.

Sahale Peak, via Sahale Glacier

When the National Park Service decided to make a 360 degree panorama of the North Cascades, they took the photos from the top of Sahale. Needless to say, this straightforward glacier climb capped off with 300 feet of 4th class rock is one of the most scenic climbs in all of the Cascades.

Grade II, class 4, 30 degree snow
Time: 2 - 3 days

A climber enjoying the last rock moves to the summit of Sahale in full conditions.

Mount Shuksan, Sulphide Glacier

Mt. Shuksan is the quintessential Cascades climb. Complete with an interesting approach, large and complex glaciers and a six hundred-foot high summit pyramid, this is a serious and rewarding climb. Watching the rising sun illuminate Mt. Baker's enormous east face on summit day is an experience you'll never forget. In spring and early summer this is an excellent ski descent.

Grade III, class 4, 30 degree snow or ice
Time: 3 days.

Still smiling as the going gets
steeper in Shuksan’s summit pyramid.

Taken from high on the sulphide glacier during a ski ascent. Note the Park glacier headwall on Mt Baker in the background.