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Classic Climbs
- Difficult |
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Classic
Climbs
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Climbs in this category demand a high level of fitness,
solid rock and/or ice climbing skills. These are challenging
and rewarding climbs where speed, good weather and teamwork
all play critical roles in the outcome of the climb.
Those wishing to attempt any of these climbs should have
previous alpine rock climbing experience.
The first 2 of these climbs are on the
granite spires that loom over the road right at the
top of Washington
Pass. These 5 spires, ranging in height from 700 to 1500
ft, make this area one of the premier alpine rock climbing
spots in the US. It's an outstanding place to get a lot
of experience on big routes in an alpine setting with
reasonable approaches. |
The east faces of (R to L) Liberty Bell, Concord tower,
Lexington tower, North early winters spire, South early
winters spire. |
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| Lexington Tower,
East Face
Another one of the fine longer (9 pitch)
routes at Washington Pass that can still be climbed
in a day from the comfort of lodging in the Methow
Valley.
A spectacular setting a thousand feet above the road
over the pass, combined with some airy belay stances
make for
an exhilarating day. The technical crux is a short
but stout 5.9+ finger crack but the next pitch's 5.9
off width will keep your attention.
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| North
Early Winter Spire, Northwest Corner
This is a climb for those who like wide cracks on great
rock . Three of the 5 pitches are rated 5.9 and lead
to the second highest summit in the spires. A panorama
of the craggy peaks nearby and the view of many of the
largest glaciers in the North Cascades will no doubt
leave you yearning for more. To check out photos from
this climb click here.
Grade III, class 5.9
Time: 1 day | 
The Northwest corner is the prominent shadowed dihedral
in the left of the photo. |
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| Mount Buckner,
North Face
This 1300 foot ice face offers a
moderate route up a big peak in an area of unsurpassed
alpine scenery. The 40-50 degree face is never extreme,
but this strenuous trip will give you great exposure
to travel in the high alpine environment.
Grade III, 50 degree snow and ice,
glacier travel
Time: 3 days
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Mt Buckner’s rugged North Face in late season conditions. |
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| Mount
Shuksan, North Face
This is a strenuous 3 day trip
which involves a cross country approach, 2000' of steep snow
and ice, and a carry over of the mountain. Leaving from the
Mt. Baker ski area, we traverse several miles of dense northwest
vegetation to make a camp at the North Face. Leaving early
the next morning, we climb up and over the summit and make
a camp at the top of Fischer Chimneys. The next morning we
descend Fischer Chimneys and hike out via Lake Anne.
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Classic view of Shuksan with the North face forming the left
skyline. |
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| Burgundy Spire,
North Face
Across the valley from the spires of
Washington Pass the jagged summit of Silver Star Mountain
rises 5000 ft above upper Early Winters Creek. The north
ridge of Silver Star terminates in the 4 Wine Spires.
The penultimate of these, Burgundy, provides a true
alpine
experience with the climb of its north face. Most parties
will need to allow 2 days for this climb. We do the approach
and bivy on a lovely larch bench below the spire. Until
midsummer the next morning's approach will be up a snow
gully to Burgundy col at the start of the route. While
not technically demanding at 5.8, the climb is challenging
due to its length and remote setting. The views into the
cirque containing the Silver Star glacier to the NE will
confirm that this truly is an alpine climber's playground.
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